Great Price Buy Whynter ARC-14SH Whynter 14,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner with Heater (ARC-14SH) Best Quality

Whynter 14,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner with Heater (ARC-14SH)

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Whynter 14,000 BTU Dual Hose Portable Air Conditioner with Heater (ARC-14SH) review

The Whynter ARC-14SH portable air conditioner and heater is designed to provide quiet and efficient cooling and heating to any room, with no permanent installation. It features CFC free R-410A refrigerant, lead-free RoHS compliant components and patented advance auto drain technology which uses and recycles moisture collected during the cooling process to produce cool air. Dual hose operation provides fast cooling for up to a 500 sq. ft. space (ambient temperature and humidity may influence optimum performance).

Improve Your RV Refrigerator Performance With a Cooling Fan

When the temperature gets hot out, your RV refrigerator can struggle to keep it's temperature cool enough to avoid food spoilage and to keep your beer at the perfect drinking chilliness. There are several factors that contribute to refrigerator efficiency, such as the sun beating down on the refrigerator side of your RV, or a dirty gas burner creating a poor heating flame. Even the levelness of your RV can cause inefficiency over time. One of the simplest and most effective mods that can be made is to improve the ventilation at the back of the refrigerator by using a fan to direct air up and out of the refrigerator vent column.

An RV refrigerator is not like a residential unit. It uses a heat absorption system rather than an electric compressor, condenser, and evaporator, as a residential refrigerator does. Heat absorption requires removing the heat from the absorption unit via chemicals and air circulation. This is accomplished by convection or draft. A narrow space behind the refrigerator allows cooler air to be drawn in to the space at the bottom of the unit. The air rises and passes over the heat absorption unit fins, and out of the vent on the roof above the unit.

Some refrigerator installations actually prevent this convection action to work. In a typical RV installation, a dead air space can exist directly above the refrigerator. This space can trap warm air and drastically reduce the draft effect. This reduction in draft is why you should do the refrigerator cooling fan mod. While not a cure all for a poor refrigerator installation, a fan can dramatically improve refrigerator cooling performance.

There are several fan types that can be used for this mod. It is recommended that you use one of the permanent-mount types as the battery-powered kind can require frequent replacement of the batteries, especially if you forget to turn the fan off when not using it. Some use computer fans that are 3 to 4″ in diameter. These require little power and move a surprising amount of air.

A thermostatically-controlled fan however, is the best way to install a refrigerator ventilation fan. These are permanently mounted and have a thermostat that provides power to the fan when the ambient air temperature reaches some set point. Different temperature set points are available with the most common switching at 80°F. A switch can also be wired in to the fan's power supply so that you have control over when the fan is on.

There is some debate as to where the most effective place to install the vent fan. Camco, for example, has a solar powered fan and refrigerator roof vent combination. This puts the fan at the top of the vent stack, pulling air through the lower vent and up through the roof vent. Still others mount the fan at the bottom of the vent stack, right at the lower vent. This position pushes air up through the stack. Both have been found to work equally as well so the choice is your on which way to go. Either way, using a vent fan will ensure a cold beer on a hot day.

Tip: Try to park your RV where the refrigerator side of the RV will be in the shade as much as possible. This will help reduce temperatures inside the refrigerator vent column dramatically. If shade is unavailable and your refrigerator is on the curb side, use the awning to provide shade.

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RV Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt DC Problem

If you enjoy RVs you already know that a major part of the fun with RVing is getting away from everything. You can just pack up the RV and head out to get some well deserved rest and relaxation without having to deal with the hassles of day-to-day living. These restful, relaxing, memory making RV trips should not be jeopardized by something as simple as a 12-volt electrical problem ruining your vacation.

If you've been RVing for any amount of time you are already aware that a good portion of the devices and accessories in your RV operate off of 12-volt DC power. 12-volt DC or Direct Current is electricity supplied by the RV batteries. DC electricity flows in one direction, from negative to positive. 12-VDC electricity is stored in the RV batteries and supplies power for components, devices and appliances that operate off of 12-volts.

These 12-volt devices include overhead lights, the water pump, vent fans, furnace fan, range hood fan, LP gas leak detectors, stereos, 12-volt TVs and the refrigerator when it's operating in the LP gas mode. When you go camping you rely on these 12-volt items to operate properly, especially if you're dry camping without hook-ups. So what do you do when one of these 12-volt items quit working?

For the sake of an example let's say that we are dry camping and our 12-volt water pump quits working.

I am convinced that just about anybody is capable of troubleshooting a 12-VDC problem, and in many cases repairing the problem without it ruining your camping trip. For starters you will need a couple of simple tools to assist you in troubleshooting your RV's 12-volt electrical system.

1). An inexpensive 12-volt test light.

2). A multi-meter that can test for DC power.

Both of these are available at local auto parts stores. You should also keep some electrical tape, various size wire nuts, 12-volt light bulbs and 12-volt fuses on hand. Check the amperage of the fuses used in the power distribution box and keep an assortment. If you're aware of any inline fuses used on any of the 12-volt devices keep these on hand too.

Now, try to determine the last time the water pump actually worked. Did you leave the RV for a period of time with the pump on? Is there water in the fresh water holding tank? Were you working on or around something else that could have affected the operation of the water pump? Try to think of all possible scenarios. Something might jar your memory resulting in a quick fix to the problem.

If not, the first step is to verify that the coach battery or batteries are charged enough to supply power to these 12-volt items. There are a couple of ways to perform a quick test on the coach batteries. You can use the monitor panel to check the condition of the coach batteries. To get an accurate reading make sure the RV is not plugged into electricity and turn on a couple of overhead lights to place a small load on the battery. Check the reading at the monitor panel. (If you check the reading at the monitor panel when the RV is plugged in to electricity it will give you fully charged reading) A more accurate method is to test the battery with a multi-meter. Set the meter to read 12-VDC and place the negative test probe on the negative battery terminal and the positive test probe on the positive battery terminal. A fully charged battery will read in the range of 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it reads less than 12-volts it is below a 50% state of charge and will need to be charged.

If the battery is fully charged, the next step is to make sure that any battery disconnect switch for the coach battery is turned on. If the battery disconnect switch is on, verify that other 12-volt devices in the RV are operating properly. If there is 12-volt power to the interior of the RV you need to check the fuse for the water pump in the power distribution center. Determine which fuse is for the water pump (fuses are normally labeled) and find a suitable ground for the 12-volt test light. Test both sides of the fuse for 12-volt power. If the test light only lights on one side of the fuse replace it with the proper size fuse and try the water pump again. If there was power at both sides of the fuse check for 12-volts at the water pump switch. If there is voltage, and the switch is operating properly check the water pump wiring for an inline fuse.

Find a good ground for the 12-volt test light and probe the wire on both sides of the fuse. If there is only power on one side of the fuse replace it with the proper size fuse and test the pump again. If there is power on both sides of the fuse check the water pump wiring connections at the wire nuts. It's possible for connections to come loose due to excessive vibration. Correct any loose connections and try the pump again. If the pump still doesn't work feel the motor to see if it is hot to the touch. If the motor is hot, a thermal breaker may have been triggered. Allow the pump time to cool off and see if it re-sets itself.

If you complete all of these tests and there is 12-volt DC power coming to the water pump motor, and it still doesn't come on, chances are the water pump is bad and it will need to be replaced.

Troubleshooting a 12-volt electrical problem in your RV is not that difficult. Follow the logical path of the device you are troubleshooting and see if you can determine where the problem is. It might be possible for you to save your well deserved vacation, some money and a trip to the RV dealership too.

Note: If you don't feel comfortable performing your own maintenance or troubleshooting the 12-volt electrical system, take your RV to a reputable repair center to have it checked out and repaired

Happy Camping!

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Installing a Portable Air Conditioner in a Room Without Windows

I live in Texas, where air conditioning is an absolute must for modern folks like us. We all have them, but most of us are pretty ignorant when it comes to how they actually work. That knowledge is beyond the scope of this article, but we should all understand that ventilation is vital to any air conditioner. Basically, ventilation means air movement between the room being conditioned and somewhere outside of it. The air conditioner itself moves the air, and should be able to without too much resistance. Free air movement is not desirable because that would allow the temperature inside and out to equalize too quickly, and what we are trying to do is create a temperature difference between the two spaces.

Portable air conditioners are no different in basic function, but have different concerns because the entire unit resides in the room being conditioned. All other types have a component outside, including window and through-wall air conditioners, which are half in and half out of the room. So a portable air conditioner needs a connection to the outside. This is done with 5 foot long, 5 inch ducts, one or two depending on the type of unit. All portable ac's come with window adapter, basically a flat piece of foam or plastic with one or two ventilation ports, which will fit into a sliding window. The hose then attaches to the adapter and the ventilation pathway is established. This is the typical recommended setup. It is easy to install and works well. Duct tape may be used to improve the seal and secure the adapter in place. These vent kits come with the unit at no additional cost. Since they use an existing window, they do not require changes to the structure of the building. But what about the room without a sliding window?

Several options are available, and I'm sure that a little ingenuity could provide more. What is needed is just a communication to somewhere outside the room, to which the hose can be attached. One option is to go through the ceiling. For rooms with a standard nine foot high office-type ceiling with 2 x 2 or 2 x 4 drop tiles, kits are available consisting of a steel panel with a ventilation port and a hose long enough (9 feet) to reach the port. The panel replaces a single 2 x 2 tile, or half of a 2 x 4 tile. The hose is attached to the port and to the portable ac, and wallah! Ventilation established! These kits are popular for computer server rooms, which commonly have no windows, but could be used in any room with an appropriate ceiling. The steel panel has only one port, so if a dual hose setup is desired, two kits would be required. There are portable air conditioners, such as the EdgeStar Server Cool, which can be used in either single or dual hose setup. Now this kit is designed for drop tile ceilings, but I see no reason it couldn't be used for other ceiling types. With a sheet rock ceiling, for example, if a hole was cut just large enough for the connection port, and the panel placed above the ceiling, that should work too. The main problems with ceiling ventilation are twofold. First, if the ambient humidity is high, a lot of moisture is going to be pulled out of the air. This would normally be blown or pumped outside, but in this setup, it's going into the attic. In the case of a unit that pumps out condensate, the drain tube should be diverted somewhere else, like into a plumbing drain or through a wall, because otherwise it will accumulate and can ceiling tiles to discolor or even sag and fall. Units that re-evaporate and blow out condensate do better here, but it brings up the second issue, space. One will only want to use this method if the available space is large enough to allow the humid, hot air to dissipate and leave the attic. Otherwise you will be pumping a lot of heat and moisture into a small space, and wind up with an attic even warmer than normal, and may still have problems with wet tiles.

Another alternative is a dryer vent, installed just like it would be for a dryer. Two can be installed side by side for dual hose units. This is a nice setup, because it establishes a ventilation portal that is inconspicuous, permanent, and easy to reach and use. Of course, it does require a hole in the wall. With this setup, the unit can be placed pretty much where desired, unlike with the window kit, where the unit must sit near the window since the hose supplied with most units is only 5' long.

Casement windows create another type of problem, and I know of no commercially available products to ventilate a portable air conditioner through a casement window. But I have seen plexiglass panes people have constructed, cut to fit into the casement window frame with the window open, with a hole cut in the plexiglass for the hose to connect. The pane is screwed in place to the window frame, and caulked as necessary to seal it. As you can see, sliding windows are not required to use a portable air conditioner. Alternate methods of ventilation require a little more work and cost, but should result in years of comfort without further issues.

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Know About Pros and Cons of Portable Air Conditioners

Can an air conditioner be portable? Well the answer is yes and here are some pros and cons of the small and movable air conditioning system.

Now as the name suggest the device is movable and small. Essentially an AC is considered as a home appliance which comes in various shapes and sizes. It is able to regulate the temperature and humidity inside a closed area like a room or a car for making the stay in it comfortable. It is a device which shows that we want to be comfortable and the desire to alter our environment.

Now what are the advantages of such a portable air conditioner? Well first is obviously the size of the device. Now the size allows placing the device where you want it. For example you need not fix the bed in the direction of the AC on the wall or the window. The s-portable one allows you place the bed as you want in the room because the size and mobility of the device gives you the freedom to do so.

Another big factor is the efficiency. Well the portable one and the window are equal in consumption of electricity, but since the portable device allows you to move it the cooling can also be in the direction you want. Unlike the large air conditioner you will not have to wait for the entire room to cool down to feel the effect of the appliance. Here you can point the cooling directly at the place you want it. Also a portable device is cheaper as it requires no installation.

Now there are also few disadvantages. Moving the machine is a plus point but that also comes with its own problems. Now the machine needs to near a window as the machine has an exhaust. Another problem with the portable air conditioners is the noise level they generate. Some of the models are known to noisier than many window or split ACs.

But if you are a person who changes a lot of houses or cities then is the best option as it is small and avoids the excess cost of installing it every time you move.

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The LG Ductless Air Conditioner Review

LG ductless air conditioners offer customers a choice in beauty that also combines functionality. These systems are not your typical unsightly systems as they can simply become "wall art". With your choice of covers, the customer can choose their favorite that can help make this system not only pleasing to the eye but also cool the air providing for a comfortable and relaxing space.

The LG ductless A/C units are considered "green" as they use the R-410A refrigerant that is better for the ozone than the old refrigerant that many manufacturers used. This choice of refrigerant also makes this ductless air conditioner system a great choice for energy efficiency and cost effectiveness.

With functionality in mind, these systems are sure to please the customer in a variety of different ways. To begin with, these systems can operate off of remote for both settings and temperature control, which helps to provide personalized comfort and even reduced energy consumption. Other features for the LG ductless models include air purification through natural air flow (and at no extra cost) and even auto operation modes, plus more. This ductless air conditioner is one of the quietest air conditioners that one can purchase on the market today. It is manufactured with an ultra quiet fan motor which helps to reduce noise pollution of the indoor ductless air conditioner unit. Actually, these systems are typically 80% quieter than other air conditioning units. We're talking about 21 dba noise levels, which is some of the lowest offered by any air conditioning manufacturer in the industry today. As a matter of fact, your fan, whether ceiling or portable, will probably produce more noise than the LG ductless air conditioners.

If that is not enough, then how about operation that will only cost about Body.07 an hour? Everyone knows how expensive operating any type of air conditioner can be; however, now there is no need to worry about those rising energy costs because one can receive one hour of cooling for only Body.07! This makes the LG offerings some of the best, if not the best, energy saving and cost effective air conditioning units available on the market today. The LG ductless air conditioners have an SEER rating of 13.0, one can see why these systems are highly cost effective. So now, one does not have to worry about the setting that the system is on; just simply use the remote, dial in a comfort setting, and then walk away, having no worries about high energy costs and consumption. (These costs are based on a nationwide average of Body.10 per Kilowatt of energy usage.)

The inside unit offers a very unique aspect in terms of decorative design. The cover of the unit has a "bordered frame" with a white matt underneath to where one can customize the décor of the unit by using photographs or even artwork. These items can be changed easily and allows the owner of the unit to showcase their favorite pictures or even a child's drawings. This completely customizable option can be highly appealing as compared to other ductless air conditioners that only offer unsightly inside units that can harm the décor of any room. The LG ductless air conditioners can and will blend in to any space and décor and will not become an eye sore.

LG ductless air conditioners come in several different variety and cooling capacities, as well as price ranges. From as low as 9,000 BTUs up to around 30,000 BTUs, a person can find the right size of ductless air conditioners to fit the space required and that will cool that space with no problems at all.

LG also offers a warranty on all of their products. To learn about the complete warranty on the LG ductless air conditioners you will want to talk with a sales representative or the manufacturer and do keep in mind that the warranty may differ from one model of the ductless units to another. But, overall, you can expect to receive a 2 year warranty on both the outside and inside units and a 5 year warranty on the compressor. Do remember that labor is not covered in the manufacturer's warranty and also that some models of the ductless A/C units are not approved for use in a mobile home. Also, one will want to check on the requirements that the manufacturer has set into place to make sure that the warranty would be valid; in some cases, the installation has to be done by a professional and the professional has to sign off on the warranty for it to be valid.

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Check Out Sharp CV-2P10SX 10,500 BTU Portable Air Conditioner With Automatic Louvers

Sharp CV-2P10SX 10,500 BTU Portable Air Conditioner With Automatic Louvers

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Sharp CV-2P10SX 10,500 BTU Portable Air Conditioner With Automatic Louvers review

The Sharp CV-2P10SX portable air conditioner combines "Library Quiet" cooling technology with sleek, attractive styling, and is easily the most quiet portable unit on the market. This makes the CV-2P10SX a great choice for cooling bedrooms, living spaces or anywhere else where noise may be a distraction. This fully portable 10,500 BTU room air conditioner requires no permanent installation and easily cools areas up to 350 square feet. A built-in, full-function Plasmacluster ionizer refreshes your air and reduces indoor odors while the automatic oscillating louvers sweep air throughout your room for improved cooling and comfort. Additional features include 4-way air direction and a remote control with LCD display.

Rated Most Quiet Portable AC
This portable AC is incredibly quiet and features Sharp's patented Library Quiet Technology. At low speed, this air conditioner can be as low as 39 dB, making it our most quiet portable air conditioner.

350 Square Foot Coverage Area
The CV-2P10SX is a 10,500 BTU unit that easily cools rooms up to 350 square feet.

Built-In Condensate Disposal System
The Sharp CV-2P10SX portable air conditioner has a built-in condensate disposable system that sends water out of the exhaust hose. This decreases the amount of condensate collected within the unit and means you'll spend less time emptying the water tank.

Works as a AC, Dehumidifier and Fan
The CV-2P10SX not only cools, but also has a dehumidify function that removes up to 60 pints of moisture daily.

Full Function Remote Control
Control every function of this portable air conditioner from virtually anywhere in the room with the full function remote with LCD display.

Built-In Air Purification System
The Sharp CV-2P10SX portable air conditioner has a built-in Plasmacluster ionizer that releases positive a

Air Conditioner - Cool History

Air conditioning: On a hot day, some people feel like they would not survive without it. It does not only refer to controlling the temperature of an indoor area (cooling), though. It also refers to controlling the humidity and sometimes even the purity of the air in an interior. When you are cruising down the street on a blistering day with the AC cranked up or freezing in a frigid movie theater watching the latest blockbuster, do you ever wonder who came up with the idea of air conditioning? It may have started earlier than you think.

The Ancient Romans invented sewers, public baths, and pottery which prove how innovative their society was. They also came up with the idea of circulating aqueduct water through the walls of houses to cool them. The Medieval Persians used a complex system of cisterns and wind towers to cool their civilization. A cistern was a large open pool in a central courtyard that collects rain water. The wind tower had windows that caught wind and internal vanes to direct the airflow down to the buildings, over the cistern and out through a downwind cooling tower. When the water in the cistern evaporated, it cooled the air in the building.

The process we currently think of as air conditioning got its start a little later. In 1820, Michael Faraday, an English chemist and physicist, discovered that compressing and liquefying ammonia could chill air when the liquefied ammonia was allowed to evaporate. In 1842, John Gorrie, a physician in the United States, used compressor technology to create ice. He dreamed of using his ice-making machine to regulate the temperature of buildings and eventually entire cities, but died before his dream came true.

Willis Haviland Carrier, in 1902, was the inventor of the first modern electrical air conditioning. He got the term air conditioning from a man named Stuart W. Cramer. Cramer controlled the humidity of his textile mill by combining moisture with ventilation. Evaporation of water in air to provide a cooling effect is now known as evaporative cooling. After the demand for modern electrical air conditioners went up, Carrier formed the Carrier Air Conditioning Company of America which is currently the largest manufacturer and distributor in the world of heating, ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) systems.

New developments in air conditioning continue to this very day. Now there is a priority on increasing energy efficiency and improving indoor air quality. So, when you are kicking back on your couch, covered with a light blanket as the sun blazes outside, you now know who to thank for your satisfaction with the surrounding environment. That may be the very definition of cool.

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Oil Filled Radiator Heaters For Warmth

Introduction

As the temperature continues to drop for many of us, how we choose to stay warm during the winter becomes an important thing for us to consider. There are many different heating solutions available to us. This article will discuss the pros and cons of oil filled radiator heaters. These types of heating appliances are one of many electrical heating devices that we can use to warm areas of our house to give it a warmer more homely feeling. Particularly when it is cold outside it is great when we are able to remain warm and cozy inside as we listen to the wind howling outside. There are many different types of space heaters on the market today. These include things like gas or electrical convection heaters that heat air and then blow it round the room, electrical halogen style heaters that give off an intense glow that warms nearby areas and oil filled radiators that look like other typical types of radiator heaters that we are used to but this time being powered by electricity rather than steam or hot water as part of a central heating system.

How oil filled radiator heaters work

These types of electrical heating appliances take their power from electrical wall sockets. Even though the are called oil filled radiator heaters, a more appropriate name may be electrical oil filled radiators. You see they do not use the oil to actually power the heating units. The power comes from electricity that reaches the radiator via the electrical power cord that comes pre-attached to each oil filled heater device. Simply by un-winding this cable and connecting the plug to a nearby wall socket will allow the appliance to draw the power it needs to start warming your home. You may be wondering, why then is it called an oil filled radiator heater? This is a common question and one that has a straight forward explanation. As discussed, the power for these machines comes from the electricity supply. There is oil that is used by the radiator as part of its regular operation. Unlike a car, the oil is not required for lubrication or anything like that. Instead, the oil is used as a heat transferal fluid. The radiator draws electrical power through the cable into the heater. This power is used to warm up the heating coils within the oil filled radiator. The oil inside the heating appliance surrounds these elements and as they warm up, so does the oil. The fluid is a special kind of oil that is sealed within the radiator and should never have the opportunity to come into contact with the owner. If the oil did start to leak then the machine should be turned off immediately and returned to the point of purchase or a suitable service center to be repaired. As the oil's temperature begins to rise, this heat is then transferred to the outer parts of the heater which then radiates out into the surrounding room. One of the many features of oil filled heaters is that the oil retains heat for long after the power has been cut off. This means that even after the device is switched off it will still have a warming effect upon the surrounding area.

Oil filled radiator heater pros

These heating devices have many positives. Firstly there are many different styles of oil filled radiators to choose from depending on your own specific circumstances. For example if you were looking for a central heating style of radiator by powered by electricity then the wall mounted oil filled radiators made by a company like Dimplex may be well worth investigating. The Dimplex OFX range are their premium brand of wall mounted oil filled radiator. They do come with an expensive price tag however also have a warranty and are made by a firm with a glowing reputation within the household heating industry. Other more common styles of oil filled heaters are the mobile type. Delonghi and Honeywell are two businesses that sell large numbers of these heating units. One of the most popular models at present is the TRD0715T which is a portable oil filled radiator heater manufactured by Delonghi. It retails for well under 0 and is also relatively cheap to run. The TRD0715T along with many other models in the Delonghi range is a portable heater that comes with wheels attached. This means that moving it from one room to another is very straight forward. Simply by disconnecting the power cord in one area, then wheeling the radiator to another part of the room or to a different room entirely before re-attaching the power cable, the heater can be used efficiently to warm only the specific area that you are working in. Oil filled radiators also have a range of safety features that mean that you can feel safe if you have to leave the unit un-attended. For example if someone accidentally knocks the heater over, the electrical power will automatically switch off. This is useful as it helps to reduce greatly the potential fire hazard that this may cause. Also if the radiator begins to over heat, again the power will automatically cut out. As the oil retains heat for long periods of time, even though the oil becomes very hot itself, it does not transfer all of this heat to the outside shell of the radiator at once so even though the radiator does become hot, it should not become so hot that accidentally touching the heater will cause a burn.

Oil filled radiator heater cons

Even though there are advantages to the oil retaining the electrical heat for longer periods of time, there are also disadvantages associated with this as well. When the power is switched on on an oil filled radiator heater, there is a time lag between this point and when the unit actually starts to give off heat. So for people who are looking for a machine that will provide instant warmth exactly when they want it, this may not be the best option.

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Air Conditioner Won't Turn On?

If you're having trouble with your central air conditioner turning on automatically please go through the following steps.

1) Set the thermostat to "cool." Check that the displayed set temperature is well below the current temperature or the real temperature of the room.

2) Your central air conditioner should have its own dedicated 240-volt circuit. Locate the main electrical box (or panel) usually located on one of interior garage walls. Check for a tripped breaker or a blown fuse. If the air conditioner breaker is tripped or blown, reset or replace the fuse.

3) Check that the furnace power switch is in the on position. Next, look for a switch mounted on the outdoor unit. This is the condenser's on/off switch. Make sure that it's off. Now, make sure the 240-volt which is next to the compressor (it should be in a metal box typically located on the exterior house wall adjacent to the unit) is still on.

4) Make sure the power to the air conditioner is off. Now, check the thermostat. Take off the outside housing on the thermostat. Unscrew the Y terminal wire and turn the power back on.

5) Now we perform the tests. Grab the wire by its rubber covering. Do not touch the metal with your fingers. Take the metal exposed portion of the Y wire and hold it to the R terminal for a couple minutes. If the compressor turns on, you have a faulty thermostat. Call a technician. If the compressor does not kick on, turn the power off and call a technician.

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